Welcome to sailing yacht Alishan

 

Makurazaki

 

 

When we managed to pull ourselves away from the fairytale forests we sailed to the main island of Kyushu and landed in the town of Makurazaki, Kagoshima. The winds were light, but from the south and we could sail a long way. Wow, Ohisashiburi! After years of motoring nearly every single mile this was nice.

 

 

 

 

 

    

 

Makurazaki Harbor

 

 

It was a bit shocking at first to be in a city again, but the place was fairly quiet and the cycle trips were great. Some people stopped by the boat and we met Yoshie Kominato, a lady photographer who took us on a sunset tour and a drive to Minami Statsuma. And Mitsuyo Ibusuki, a sailing club member who also took us for a ride, this time to Chiran, a samurai town, followed by stop at a noodle restaurant and a hotspring.

 

 

 

 

Sunset at Bonotsu.

 

 

 

 

No, not Mt Fuji, we’re not that fast. Kanondake in the south of Kagoshima

 

     

 

Left a Japanese garden at Chiran, Right a tea plantation. The fans on poles move the air in winter, so the frost won’t get a chance to settle on the delicate leaves.

 

 

 

 

Jaap with Mitsuyo in a noodle restaurant

 

 

Nomaike

 

A typhoon was coming our way and we had to look for a more sheltered place. We moved a few miles north to an enclosed bay in Nomaike. Both ladies stopped by and Mi-chan even stayed overnight. It’s good to meet people who can tell us about their customs and traditions, show us places of interest and introduce us to local products. It’s even better that we can talk to them in their language. It was a bit hard at first, but our Japanese is now back to where we set off 4 years ago.

 

 

 

 

Terraced rice fields on the slopes of Nomadake

 

 

       

 

Who ever isn’t a farmer works as a fisherman, who also need space to work on nets.

 

 

 

 

More nets, not used for fishing but to protect the roof from taking off in a typhoon.

 

 

 

 

Whatever the occupation, everybody is too busy to clean up this mess.

 

 

Visiting yachts can stay at the little pontoon of the Kasasa Ebisu resort, where a little museum shows photos of famous Japanese seafarers and overseas visitors like… Harry Heckel! Jaap mailed Harry who replied right away and greetings were exchanged. A couple of yachts were on display, one belonging to Kyoko Imakaiire who solo circumnavigated it non-stop and who showed up in person for a weekend sail. We talked about our pasts and discovered we’d both done the same Yamaha Cup Yacht race from New Zealand to Japan in 1989. What a small world.

 

 

 

 

Kasasa Ebisu

 

We sat out the strong winds of typhoon Kompasu and left again on September 1^st.

 

Akune

 

 

Planning our trip towards Nagasaki we put down the town of Akune. We didn’t know much about it, but had stopped there once during a drive around Kagoshima 14 years ago and Jaap remembered its hotspring. Scanning the town on Google Earth he came across some photos of the local shopping street. Many shutters were painted with colorful, interesting and even funny images.

 

 

 

 

After a pleasant day sail from Kasasa Ebisu we found an unused pontoon to tie onto and went to sleep. The next morning a local yachtsman stopped by and when he asked why we’d come to Akune, we mentioned the painted shutters and he promptly introduced us to the artist who was at that time working on a shutter a mere 100m up road.

 

 

 

 

 

    

 

 

 

 

 

See more of Akune's shutter art: http://akuneart.potika.net/

 

That was the beginning of a very nice friendship with this yachtsman, Mr. Matsunaga and his family, Kyota sensei, the painter and his assistant Mr. Uenohara, The people at Harmonikan, Emi, the mayor’s sister and many others. Even the mayor himself dropped by for morning coffee.

 

 

    

 

Mr. Matsunaga took us to several scenic places, wonderful lunches and unique hotsprings.

 

 

 

 

Kyota sensei, Emi, Jaap and Mr. Matsunaga warming their feet in Kirishima.

 

 

We also had several parties in the evening and were allowed to admire the beautifully decorated residence upstairs from the coffee shop, full with antique furniture in a warm rural style. It looked like a feature in one of those glossy interior magazines.

 

    

 

Some of Noriko’s treasures

 

 

The few times we were not out somewhere with Mr. Matsunaga or on our own bikes, people stopped by at the red pontoon to chat all day long, starting at 6:00 am. Just as well we tend to rise early. So we got to know the Shimizus and enjoyed a meal at their house. Yuri, living in Ireland, home on vacation, speaking perfect English. Yuri’s brother and his friends who brought us fish and lots of other goodies. It was overwhelming, too much!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Countryside just south of the city, a mere 15 min on the bicycle.

 

 

       

 

A scarecrow contest near Izumi, east of Akune

 

 

Akune’s busy fish market

 

 

 

 

 

     

 

 

 

 

 

    

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the south, east of the Philippines TDs were forming one after the other, darting north, deepening on the way. One of them, Malou, developed in a proper typhoon and came heading our way, but changed course to the west just before reaching Kyushu. We did get some wind, but no waves and it didn’t do much harm anywhere. However, it happened just after new moon and the springtides became phenomenal, flooding the docks and the parking lot.

 

 

    

 

Left: Jellyfish on the parking lot.  Right: Dinner with Katsuko and Mitsuo Shimizu

 

 

Akune held us in its grip for many days, however on September 10th our friends got up early to see us off, so we had to go.

 

 

 

 

Farewell!

 

Nagasaki

 

 

 

 

Approaching Nagasaki you see the famous Mitsubishi shipyards

 

 

We skipped Amakusa and sailed nonstop to Nagasaki city. Only 45 miles to the north, we arrived the same day in the afternoon. There was a pleasant surprise: Dejima Wharf Marina in the middle of the city, walking distance from all the tourist attractions and surrounded by small restaurants on a boardwalk, playing jazz in the evening in a super romantic setting.

 

 

    

 

Dejima from the Nakashima River

 

 

Nagasaki has a lot to offer for tourists, not just the Atomic Bomb Museum. We have been there twice, cried twice, don’t need it a 3^rd time. The same with Clover Garden and the original Dejima site. That left us all the other historical, cultural and folk museums and many temples and shrines.

 

 

       

 

 

 

 

Sofuku-ji, a Zen temple of Chinese origin.

 

 

The cats were in for a surprise as well when Noriko sensei came to stay and they had to share their bunks. Sensei didn’t bring out any syringes or nasty thermometers and they enjoyed the cuddles and the attention.

 

 

 

 

Wakame with her godmother Noriko

 

 

We caught up with Satoshi, a friend of a friend, who drove us around on a Sunday. We had met him once, some 20 years ago in company of another Dutch sailor in Japan named Jaap, who was in Fukuoka for a few days. Jaap, at present working on his boat in Wakayama re-introduced him.

 

 

    

 

Satoshi took us on a drive to Omura Wan, a safe haven for his yacht Bries

 

 

While in Nagasaki city we got the chance to watch a practice session for the big O Kunchi festival in October.

 

 

       

 

 

 

 

 

We saw this yearly festival in 1989 and remember it well, however we decided our experience out-dated; we should see it again. A new plan was made: we would hang around Nagasaki prefecture a bit longer, do all our delayed chores somewhere quiet and return to the city early October.

 

 

 

 

Another practice session was documented, to reinforce our decision

 

 

    

 

Towards the Dutch slopes we found an old sento or public bath house (left), Note the two entrance doors with the big YU character in red for ladies and blue for men. Right around the corner of  the Chinese Historical Museum (roof detail right)

 

 

Mie

 

After the OK by the Ministry of Transport we got a new cruising permit and moved to Mie, a small town to the north with a big fish market. Here we found some new constructed typhoon shelters in a quiet area with very little traffic, a parking lot and bare land covered with grass and bush. The cats dove in the green strip between the parking lot and the dock like we dive in a swimming pool. Wakame invariably emerged chewing on some hopper, Nori kept chasing her tale. These cats were happy!

 

 

 

 

The typhoon shelters are boxed in by high metal fencing. Alishan is in the 3^rd from the left

 

 

This cruise to re-discover Japan (the culture, the language) turned out to affect our social life more then anything else. And this was not the end. In Mie we reconnected with the big Sawamura family, mum dad and 12 kids. We’d met them 21 years ago when they were living in Nagasaki city and they were our first Japanese friends outside Fukuoka.

 

 

 

 

 

Jaaps search in the town, via their old neighborhood and the police station to the office of the fish market proved successful and Takaji, his wife, 2^nd daughter and 2^nd son came to Alishan right away. Many of the children now had families of their own and 17 grandchildren were brightening their lives. Everybody was excited and a party was planned. We can attest that the noise level at their gatherings is as high as ever.

One sad note however was Takaji’s health. He had just come out of hospital. We stayed longer than planned for the umpteenth time.

 

 

Fukue, Goto Retto

 

At last we made the jump to Fukue in the Goto Retto, away from cities and people.  The weather was changing and the wind shifted to the north, bringing lower temperatures and rain. Again luck was with us in the form of a comfortable spot at a pontoon, more or less downtown.

Now times are filled with little projects in preparation of Edwin and Melissa’s visit next month. Stowing, cleaning, sewing, fixing and writing this update.

We had to dig up long sleeves and socks, the summer is ending. TDs are still threatening down south, but so far so good. Let’s keep our fingers cross.

 

 

 

 

Alishan in Fukue, right in front of the customs building.

 

The first night we stayed at the police dock, in full sight of the Coast Guard. The following morning the port captain showed us another spot, also at a pontoon, 50m away. A customs officer stopped by 2 days after our arrival. He was very friendly but reminded us that we could not have any visitors onboard and we replied: “Yes, we understand.” (We really do, but sometimes we forget) The Coast Guard took 3 days to find us and said: “We want to inspect your boat”. Shock! However, they didn’t mean a full inspection, just the paperwork.

 

 

 

 

 

Between jobs we explored the island, by bicycle or car. We got up at 4:00 am to go and see the raptor migration from Osezaki, drove to Arakawa hotspring and met our old friends. AGAIN were given the keys to Mrs. Ozaki’s car, who didn’t need it when she was at work, just like 4 years ago. How can we not love this country and the people. I wonder how long we will stay this time. Last time we said 1 or 2 years and we left after 11. This time?

 

 

 

 

 

 

                         

From Yaku Shima via Makurazaki, Nomaike, Akune, Nagasaki, Mie to Fukue Port in the Goto Retto.

Floats

 

 

 

 

Somebody put a lot of work in this lovely old tug boat

 

 

 

 

Fishing vessels braving the waves around Yakushima

 

 

 

 

Dresssed-up in matsuri finery

 

 

 

 

A yacht full of canvas in Ginowan Marina

 

 

 

 

Hurrying home

 

 

 

 

Not really afloat but a float

 

 

 

 

One of many inter-island ferries

 

 

 

 

Floating by to say farewell: Ryu-chan

 

 

 

 

Going for the trophy

 

 

 

 

Over float

 

 

 

How many floats?

 

 

 

Float no more

 

Funny, mostly just interesting

 

 

 

 

A personalized vendingmachine in Naha, Okinawa

 

 

 

 

Seasick Wakame. She can blow big bubbles, but they alwayst burst before we are ready.

 

 

 

 

The public toilet made not to look out of place in Yakusugi Land

 

 

 

 

When you see a foreign or strange looking boat, call 110!

 

 

    

 

Another vending machine, this one for fresh eggs. Makurazaki

 

 

 

 

Sake cups with a hole that cannot stand, so the drinker has to drink-up quickly and hold it to receive more.

 

 

       

 

Library on wheels

 

 

 

 

Just a colourful fence

 

 

 

 

A typhoon proof bunker type telephone booth in Anbo

 

 

 

 

And an interesting one in Fukue

 

 

 

 

BIRDS OF SOUTH JAPAN

 

 

Ishigaki:

 

 

 

Ruddy Kingfisher (Akashoubin) Often heard and sometimes seen in Amami as well

 

 

 

 

Japanese (Black) Paradise Flycatcher (Sankocho)

Also seen once in Amami

 

 

 

 

Chetsnut-eared Bulbul (Hyodori) Seen by the hundreds or more, all over south Japan

 

 

    

 

Common Moorhen (Ban) Comon birds, nesting in a ricefield

 

 

 

 

Ryukuy Crested Serpent Eagle (Kanmuri-washi) Defending his prey from a crow

Only seen in Iriomote, (4 years ago) and Ishigaki

 

 

 

 

Purple Heron (Murasaki sagi)

 

 

Akashima, Kerama Retto:

 

 

 

Blue Rock Thrush male (Isohyodori) As seen on all islands as well as mainland Kyushu

 

 

 

 

Japanese White-eye (Mejiro) Very common and so easy to capture

 

 

Okinawa main island

 

 

    

 

Blue Rock Thrush female (Isohyodori) often stopped around Alishan on the docks

 

 

 

 

Japanese Sparrowhawk female (Tsumi) Frequenting Ginowan, also seen in Amami and Fukue

 

 

    

 

Chinese Bulbul (Shirogashira)  Abundant in Okinawa and Ishigaki, not seen much elsewhere

 

 

 

 

Japanese Sparrowhawk male (Tsumi) Ginowan

 

 

Izena

 

 

 

Scaly-breasted Munia (Amihara) Also seen in Ishigaki. A new Japanese resident?

 

 

        

 

Left: Green Pheasant (Kooraikiji)  Right: Zitting Cisticola (Sekka)

Both very common in Izena

 

  

Amami Ohshima

 

 

 

Pygmy Woodpecker (Kogera) Often seen, hard to capture

 

 

    

 

Left: Grey Plover (Daizen)  Right: Ruddy Turnstone (Kyoujo-shigi)

 

 

 

 

Pacific Reef Egret (Kurosagi)

 

 

       

 

Left: Scops-Owl (Konohazuku)  Right: Collared Scops-Owl (Ryukuy konohazuku)

 

 

 

 

Japanese Green Woodpecker (Aogera)

 

 

 

 

Common Kingfisher (Kawasemi)

 

 

 

 

Varied Tit (Yamagara)

 

 

Kyushu, Kagoshima-ken

 

Blue Heron (Aosagi) Seen in most places, photos takin in Makurazaki and Akune:

 

       

 

 

 

 

 

Black Kite (Tombi)  From Yakushima northwards, Akune and Nomaike:

 

    

 

 

 

 

 

       

 

 

Black-crowned Nightheron (Goisagi), Akune:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Waiting on the roof of the fishmarket in Akune: Black Kites, Grey Herons and a Nightheron

 

 

    

 

Left: Bull-hesded Shrike (Mozu)  Right: Silky Starling (Gin mukudori)

 

 

At sea between Kagoshima and Nagasaki:

 

 

 

Herring Gull (Seguro kamome)

 

 

       

 

Brown Booby (Katsuodori)

 

 

 

 

Streaked Shearwater (Omizunagidori)

 

 

Mie:

 

       

 

Left: Great Tit (Shijuu-kara)  Right: Meadow Bunting (Hoojiro)

 

 

Fukue:

 

 

 

Grey-capped or Oriental Greenfinch (Kawarahiwa) In flocks around farmland.

 

 

 

 

Grey Wagtail (Ki-sekirei) Finally a decent picture